Tuesday, December 8, 2009

08/12
Nothing much to report except that I am finishing my personal statement but have way too much... The other news is that I was invited to a part at the house of the brother of my host mother for which I have to leave on Friday and only return on Sunday. Should be interesting though I have no clue what to expect and I might have to stay home as I got a cold in 25 degrees...

Saturday, December 5, 2009

05/12
Having had electricity for the past two weeks it is a hard hit in the face to be back in the project and having to write this outside in the last rays of sunlight. With all my gadgets charged though it is nice to listen to jazz while watching the sun disappear. The sunset in Africa is one of the most beautiful things even though it is over in a few minutes, or maybe that makes it so special.
We have returned to the village where in two weeks exactly two things have changed (some of the spinach had to be replaced and the newly wed of one of Peter's brothers lives with us now). It is amazing how time just slows down here when I think about what I did in those 2 weeks. What we did miss apparently was the entire rain season coming down in those 14 days. Everything is green. The maize has doubled in height and you can even see watermelons, although tiny.
Even though the new member of the family looks very young she of course has a child already. Strange is however that Peter said the wedding was two weeks ago meaning the child was born outside of marriage! Stone it!
It is nice to see that in a society that still hunts albinos from time to time, starts its new draft constitution with "In humble acceptance that god is the creator of all living things", kills homosexuals, burns thieves alive (last night while we were sleeping again) and do all of the above and much much more if you are from a different tribe and just stole an election, having a child before being married seems to be accepted. Speaking of death last week a neighbor died while working in Nairobi leaving behind a wife and two children. He was buried already when we arrived and you really cannot tell the difference as life continues as usual. I probably do not want to know how he died. And finally getting rid of the military draft would be no problem for Germany as there are enough hopeless Kenyans to fill the gaps. Whether at the coast, Nairobi or here the second choice of profession after either car mechanic or any of the other 4 jobs the 36 million normal Kenyans have (shop keeper, matatu driver, wood craftsman and of course farmer) is always the army.

Monday, November 30, 2009

30/11
Last day of November!
Yesterday Laetitia, the french volunteer I was talking about when I first got here, and her best friend Alexa from Paris joined us in Diani. They are great company as I get along with both very well. Laetitia came from Naivasha where she was invited to attend a traditional wedding of a sister of a friend from Nairobi. Today the three of them went on a one day trip to the marine park close to the border to snorkel, swim wit dolphins, eat sea food, look at the caves where the slaves were kept before being shipped to Zanzibar and one of the villages on the island before heading back on an arabic sailing boat. I stayed behind because I am responsible and want to finish my personal statement! Or simply because I still have 9 months of Kenya and the trip costs 35 Euros.
Last night we went to the beach after eating crab curry with spiced rice and vegetables the cook had prepared all for 5 Euros per person and enjoyed in amazement temperatures of under 30 degrees and a moon that illuminated the white beach so much that you could see everything well.
28/11
If m\Malindi beach (north of Mombasa) is little Italy because of all the Italians then Diani beach is little Germany. The charming mix of grumpy retirees and quarelling tourists makes me proud! This is topped though by the beach boys. As soon as you step on the nearly deserted white sand one of them pops up from somewhere tells you that he is a specialist in making key chains or some other things you really really need. I still remember the beach boys being very persistant 10 years ago but today they do it in nearly perfect German. "Wir sind alle die selben! Nur Hautfarbe anders. Brauchst keine Angst haben wir fressen keine Menschen."
On Friday night we took a bus at 9:30 to spend 4 nights in Diani beach before Anne leaves on the 5th of December. We found a bus company that treated us to a snack, drinks, a movie, pillows and mos surprising of all it was actually an intact bus. Once again however, what I once waved off as a stereotype came true again as the inside of the bus was at least 40 degrees. Africans need a sweater and a winter jacket when the temperature drops below 30. "Can you even leave the house when it is 0 degrees or do you freeze?" Is a common question I have heard 5 times already. This made it practically impossible to get a good rest. We arrived at 5 in the morning and somehow managed to get to the ferry that brings you back to the main land. It was still dark and we just wanted to get to Diani so we will have to get a good look at the city one of these days.
The beach is beautiful. Although a little rocky the sand is white, the palm trees give you the little shade you need, there is a cave like place on the beach where you could even have dinner if you carried a table down and the cottage is 30 seconds away from all that. Another unique thing about Diani and especially our cottage (www.vindigocottages.com) is the amount of monkeys. To observe them when they are far away is interesting as the similarity in human/monkey gestures is extremely funny but their eagerness to steal all sorts of things is less funny. So far we have lost 5 bananas, a bread and pieces of mango. If the beach boys were to disappear miraculously (by the government creating some jobs for example...) it would be more than idylic. The only thing missing is Caroline.
Lets rewind time. On Friday last week Musyoki, Peter and I drove to Nairobi. I had invited the two latter to experience "my" food, which however was doomed due to complications in actually getting there so we ate at Java House instead. Great food but established as the first coffee house by Americans it had things from Mexico and the US on the menu. This did not really matter however as both ordered in Swahili and the only thin I understood was "kuku" and "chips": friend chicken and fries. The experience of eating different food was apparently not tempting enough and so it all turned into eating the known things just better quality. At least something! They were greatful and happy though. Anne and I stayed with other volunteers we met there when Musyoki and Peter had to leave.
After that Anne, Laetitia and I went back to the KVDA house to see KK and Moses again who greated us warmly. I heard from Syvia that they were planning to have a BBQ that evening and Laetitia joined Anne and I, the weekend could not have started better.
The remaining days with the Moellers remained that good with a cinema visit and me being invited to Muthaiga Country Club for a buffet, pool and the Kibaki family (the president for those of you that do not read the news) family celebrating the baptism of their daughter, accompanied by 5 black Mercedes and 2 military jeeps. Ironic that the president chooses to celebrate in one of the last symbols of colonialism.
On Thursday the seminar started at the KVDA house and we spent two days exchanging our good but mostly bad experiences. It was nice to meet the other volunteers but the stories were less delightful. One girl nearly got raped by her host father, another heard from the orphans she was sent to help about the daily abuse they had to live with, a third was kicked out of his host family because the money did not arrive and he nearly had to sleep on the street and Konstantin is still in jail in Mombasa.

Monday, November 16, 2009

16/11
I found out that Peter actually has a bow and arrow in his house, which he has used before to hunt when he was younger or kill animals that enter the house. Luckily that has not been the case so far yet we did have to kill our second snake yesterday. This time it was considerably larger.
On Thursday we finally went on our safari. The morning before I was told that we would be 24 instead of the planned 11 and I was delighted that so many could come from the village. When we were seated in the bus, rented for the day, I did not recognize more than half. I found out that Peter had asked others such as some from the polytechnic who had nothing to do with the Kathuni Youth Development Club for which we are the volunteers. They definitely looked like they could have contributed more than the 100KSH, which the boys from the village were capable of paying and is the equivalent of driving from Kaani (the village closest to the main road) to Machakos. The two other volunteers from the area joined us on that day after we met them last Sunday. For the first time in my case, Anne knew them from Nairobi. As so many others they are having big difficulties in their project in which they have to take care of orphans and with their organization (IJGD. They lack acceptance and interest from their village. In the end the four of us had to pay 1300KSH each for a crowded bus with people I did not know. It seemed like we were subsidizing non members to see the wild life for the price of a mars bar in Germany. I felt cheated and I told Peter so especially as if he had told me we could have done some sort of exchange: you can come to the safari but have to spend a day at the demonstration garden.
The trip started African time so 2 hours late.
Once we arrived at Kapiti ranch and saw the first warthog we just forgot about all that and enjoyed the trip. The experience got much better when Patrick, another boy from the village, had the great idea to sit on the roof normally reserved for an average of 50 matrices, 2000 bananas, 100 sacks of cement and maybe 200kg of charcoal. Separated from the ones seated inside we enjoyed the trip from the roof while Mike, the one who is teaching me Spanish, used his knowledge learnt in Nairobi to explain the wild life. For everybody else it was the first time to see zebras, giraffes, gnus and antelopes and when they appeared the excitement was obvious. We were treated to a deserted ranch having all the animals to ourselves. I got the best pictures from the number one poser animal: the giraffe.
After that we continued to the next ranch called Cheru. I was told that this colossal ranch was private property of the justice minister with villa and pool included. On the property he had opened an orphanage for injured wild animals which we are about to see. The staff was amazing and we walked around to see young buffalo that we could stroke although being one of the big 5 (the 5 you should not mess with) and to lions which seemed less willing to be stroked. They have three 2 year old lions one of which repeatedly tried to snatch the little boy who came along.
Oh what I had forgotten to mention, the boys from the village had all dressed in their best clothes for the occasion. And I always say boys because no girls came on the trip or show up around me with one exception. There were girls from the polytechnic on the bus but they rather stuck to themselves and listened to their mini radio and mobiles much like the western species of the "Blackberry girl".
Next we saw the around 1000 tortoises small and big. All this time we were accompanied by the three care takers who were extremely motivated and informative. One even told me that there is a possibility to stay for a few days and I will try and do that next year experiencing what it is like to feed wild animals etc. We also saw cows that actually had meat on their ribs also property of the minister and used to feed the animals. Finally we walked to the cheetahs. This was the highlight for me as I had seen all the other animals before and a cheetah sprint once too but never this close! The tail is surprisingly bushy, the body made for accelerating from 0 to 100 in 3 seconds and the face rather squared. They were also very young and so used to humans as they lived in captivity that I could also stroke one through the wire.
I should probably mention that I spent last Tuesday night throwing up continuously after thinking on Monday that I was doing pretty well health wise after a month. That day I had spent repairing the water pipe on the hill with Peter and two others, which is a truly challenging job. However I think the reason was the dinner on Monday which included eggs. I continued feeling terrible on the Wednesday but luckily felt well enough for the safari on Thursday.
The conversations have now made a complete circle and although Peter and Anne are interested in the news all we really talk about is Afghanistan. Last night it came up again as I heard Gordon Brown's interview with the BBC but I had to repeat the same old lines how I do not think the west is imposing anything because let's face it Al Qaeda did have a safe haven in Afghanistan and nearly 3000 innocent people died on 9/11.
Over the weekend I spent more time learning Spanish from a surprisingly good language book Mike gave me. It is really becoming my free time activity of choice and as I have more than enough free time I will hopefully say sentences on new years!
Over the weekend we will be in Nairobi then I will upload pictures of the safari as well as of the people with a brief description.
Till then byebye

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Introduction

I am about to finish typing the project plan and I wanted to post the introduction (which will hopefully sum everything up so really it is all you will have to read) :)
I am still trying to figure out how we can apply for financing from the BMZ without which we can not build the tanks so without that there is no point in asking you to donate yet. In my next post I will give you a brief description of the people around here hopefully with pictures as I thought that will give you a better idea of who "my host father" and "his nephew" is.

Kathuni Youth Development Club (KYDC) is a youth organization formed in 1994 with the goal of improving the quality of life of the youth and families. The club is located in Eastern Province of Kenya, Machakos district Kathiani Division Iveti location, Kaani sub-location and consists of more than 100 members.
Geographically the club is located in a hilly and semi-arid region with two rain seasons. The first season begins in March and lasts until July while the second period begins in October and ends in December resulting in an average rain fall of 790mm per year. Rain is not reliable throughout the year and the region has not been spared by the recent droughts Kenya is suffering under. Much of the water flows past the villages into the Indian Ocean or is lost due to evaporation. When the rivers dry up, the water which is left stagnant in the puddles is used domestically leading to water borne-diseases and a breading area for mosquitoes.
That is why KYDC took the initiative to harvest the roof water and store it in tanks so that it can be used during the dry season. Water gathered from roof tops pours down with great force, causing soil erosion down hill. The lack of such water harvesting methods has led to the death of live stock and even loss of human life. In the years 2007-08 the KYDC organized the erection of 40 tanks and wants to expand the coverage with 40 additional tanks. Construction will accomplish two things: Clean drinking water will be stored and used during dry season and soil erosion will be reduced. The tanks will be made out of concrete because they are durable and cheaper due to presence of building materials such as sand and ballast.
The main goal of the club is to improve the living standards of the community. Clean drinking water is essential for human health, and is therefore the most important place to start when helping a community.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

03/10
The smell of the land soaking up the rain after long durations of drought has disappeared as the rains come more sporadic. Anne and I are getting along very well. The project has become much better with her around as she pushes for more interaction with the community while leaving me with the space I sometimes need to read or write.
To jump back in time: on Thursday Patricia departed to Nairobi and the weekend was filled with planting tea and sun flowers on an experimental basis and football practice as well as a match on Sunday on the actual pitch. To this match only 7 appeared, which meant that 4 of the younger ones had to jump in. In the first half the Kaani team scored after being rewarded with a penalty that should have been off-side before. During half time it started to rain turning the pitch into mud and making it impossible to play. Another penalty and goal later the match was over and one could clearly see the disadvantages playing on a small and crooked pitch comes with.
On certain days Anne longs to be back in Germany with her friends and family then I have to comfort her and remind her of the good things while on other days I am the one that needs comforting. On those days Kenya reminds me of Europe during the Middle Ages. The majority of the people are so back ward in their mind set that it will need a Renaissance and an industrialization to develop this country. I sometimes have the feeling just because there are the material things such as cars or televisions available that can be found in Europe the people do not need to change or learn anymore just acquire these and the rest will come by itself.
Even the education system is backward. Just because Kenyan primary education is basically free it does not mean that the country is bound to progress. Most of Europe had free primary education 100 years ago so to expect Kenya will progress equally fast after 4 years is just ludicrous.
The students get tought religion from Standard 1 but not in an open, state and church separated way but rather quizzed on what Psalm x says or what wonders Moses did. Leading to most kids being able to tell you what the bible says but without relflection of any sort. Althogh illegal, beating children for mistakes is still common practice and police brutality only nurtures this. Leading to the end of school exams being overshadowed with huge scandals of cheating as the only way to escape the beating for doing mistakes is to learn how to cheat your way out of it. The most shocking story however was that of a robber in the area around two years ago told us by Peter the host father. The robber and sometimes others would enter the houses and steal whatever he found valuable. One night he got cought by the owner of the house who cut both his heels so he could not run away then called the village together. After a beating the thief told the village the names of his friends and yet they still burnt him alive afterwards.
Of course on the days Anne longs to be back in Germany I tell her that the food has greatly improved since Musyoki cooks for us. The weather has remainded pleasant with regular rain fall and on some nights the sky is so clear the stars are as visible as they can possibly be with a spectacular moon. Peter remains friendly but most importantly as open as can possibly be and seems to have no problem with us spending an upcoming weekend in Nairobi, where I will stay with Sylvia and a few days in Mombasa with other volunteers.
There is a hold on the water tank project as I now do not know whether the BMZ requirements are applicable to the specific conditions.

Monday, November 2, 2009

02/11
After a long break from blogging I now find time to update you on what has been happening over the last couple of days. The last time I wrote I already warned you that we were thinking about a water tank construction project and 10 days later we have made huge advances. We are writing a project plan that I will send to all of you as an email attachment in the next two days. This will state the projects goal how we want to achieve it etc. Additionally we have a rough estimate as to what the construction costs and running costs will be: 2200000KSH. We have contacted the BMZ and were told that a 75% financing was possible, which leaves us with 550000KSH or 5500 Euros. Those that receive a tank will have to contribute so that Anne and I are left with 3100 Euros that we have to raise somehow. I am currently in contact with the embassy in Nairobi for funds and trying to contact the German school in Nairobi for additional money but it would be great if you could also contribute. If you are interested respond to the email that I will hopefully send in the next two days if you did not receive anything by Friday please tell me as it is very hard to organize addresses from an internet cafe and I might have missed somebody.
Last week Sunday Musioki (the nephew of my host father) and I went to Machakos to watch Manchester United be beaten by Liverpool, which was very exciting not only because it was a good match but also because by the time it ended it was dark outside and the city transforms itself when the lights suddenly go out. It was quite an experience taking one of the last buses that left Machakos and seeing the city so empty although it was only about 19:00 especially as the only light source were the head lights of the bus on the winding road down to Kathuni. I arrived safely and we spent the rest of the foot walk to the house talking about football. During the match on several occasions Musioki (I do not really know the spelling...) asked me about the teams, rules and players showing me how little knowledge they really had about a sport so many love. For example he did now know which team was Manchester and which Liverpool and called "penalty!" every time the people in the pub got excited over a foul.
The next day Anne and Patricia arrived and we went to pick them up with a bit of rain fall for the first time in many days. We finally bought mattresses and I was extremely happy to have company. We managed to fit everybody into the small house which meant it was a very good atmosphere. On Tuesday, instead of the planned one day safari and after a morning of planting, we only went to the anti-gravitational field expecting something spectacular but instead finding ourselves watching young men pour water from a puddle on the road for 50KSH. Then however the water did in fact run up the road instead of flow down which was impressive. I still cannot explain how it worked.
On Wednesday we went to Wamunyu the place where wood carving was supposedly first practiced in Kenya. There were beautiful things but Peter had trouble admiring the work because he always mentioned how many trees had to be cut down in the process. A day later Patricia left us and returned to Nairobi but was happy to have come. Since then Anne and I are getting along very well and we have finished all the planting, which leaves us with football practice for me and playing with the children much better than me for Anne. I have begun reading The Lost Symbol by Dan Brown and am enjoying it just as much as his other works.
I have to leave the internet cafe now but as I will be coming back in the next couple of days I will update you with part 2 then.
Hope you are all well!

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

20/10
The first couple of days it has been raining on and off leaving little time to work on the field. Instead I have been spending the time reading or listening to the radio, although receiving a good signal is always a hard task in this hilly area. So far I have finished "The Uncommon Reader" by Alan Bennet, which was a good and fun read. The house in which I live with my host father is more of a hut. Roughly 10m2 split into three rooms one of which is the living room. The living room includes a table and seven chairs most of which are never in use. Here we get brought food from the kitchen, which is attached to the house of the hosts mother some 8m away. My room lacks the promised door for privacy since the day I arrived but that is probably because my host father has been away every day attending to something in Machakos or the surrounding. There is only space for one bed, which lacks a mattress however making it not the most comfortable sleeping experience. I will go to town on Tuesday to buy one.
There is still no sign that Anne can come to my project and I have the feeling KVDA will decide on the day she returns from Uganda. Those that do the work and keep the association going do not have the power to make decisions like Chofe, KK and Jessy and those that do have that power do not want to share it because they feel threatened. Another big problem I see with the KVDA is that the money that the BMZ gives out every month (200Euros) is simply given to the organizations leaving them with the task of coordinating finances. This results in 50Euros going to support the volunteer and the respective project and 150Euros staying with the KVDA, which really does not give the impression that the KVDA is an association that simply coordinates volunteers. This is justified by saying that the host should not see the volunteer as a means to get extra money, which is fair enough but that could be solved by splitting the 200 into 50 for the volunteer, 130 for administration and 20 diverted into something like a fund from which the projects can then apply for money and the KVDA can still decide whether the project deserves that money or not and there would be an alternative for the volunteer to always asking his "muzungu friends" for money or fund raising in an environment that lives off 1$ a day.
The people here are so disconnected from the world that children who love football ask me whether I know Manchester United and if so where it is. They have heard or random players or clubs as all the cheap merchandising ends up in Africa and it is not uncommon to see a little boy with a Barcelona belt buckle but when questioned not knowing what that is or at best having heard of it but then saying "It's in England!" The best example of this however happened on the first day. I was showing my host father and two others the pictures I had brought from Berlin and Geneva and while explaining what a subway is to a perplexed audience, handed out Haribo gummi bears to be faced with having to explain that they are sweets and that you have to chew them until they are small enough to swallow.
When you are in a surrounding that is so completely different to yours you really realize what influenced you and what your "culture" is our has become. In one of the evenings at the house in Nairobi we were all sitting outside eating dinner with every volunteer. Konstantin, Max and I then said to each other in amazement that the Scotsmen was really Scottish, the Japanese girl was really Japanese and the French girls seemed really French. Having said this in German I now switched to English and asked the closest French girl whether she in return thought we were very German and now others joined in and after a few seconds the verdict was yes but the most German seeming was I. The one who lived less than half his life in German, who spoke English best and generally had an international upbringing seemed most German. Of course we were all just stereotyping and one response to why I was most German was because "my hair is really blond" but it was an interesting moment nevertheless and strengthened my observation at LGB that paradoxically in a school with about 90 nationalities and every skin color possible racism was no problem but the students identified much stronger with nationalities. Although the LGB readers might want to disagree with that.
One major cultural difference which I have already mentioned is the perception of time. In Europe everything is arranged according to time. After all this is where the 24 hour day and the Gregorian calender was invented, which close to everybody uses today. The idea that you have to use the day as efficiently as possible because the day only has 24 hours and time is running away might be Europe's biggest yet less obvious export through imperialism etc. Ryszard Kapuscinski a Polish journalist who traveled Africa since 1957 describes the perhaps most vivid difference beautifully in his book "Afrikanisches Fieber". I apologize to those who do not speak German but me translating this would ruin the passage.
"Fuer sie (Afrikaner) ist die Zeit eine ziemlich lockere, elastische, subjektive Kategorie. Der Mensch hat Einfluss auf die Gestaltung der Zeit, auf ihren Ablauf und Rhythmus. Die Zeit ist sogar etwas, was der Mensch selbst schaffen kann, weil die Existenz der Zeit zum Beispiel in Eireignissen zum Ausdruck kommt, ob es aber zu diesem Ereignis kommt oder nicht, haengt schliesslich vom Menschen ab. Wenn zwei Armeen auf eine SChlacht verzichten, dann hat diese Schlacht nicht stattgefunden (das heisst, die Zeit hat ihre Existenz nicht unter Beweis gestellt, existiert nicht)."
It is always extremely impressive with what patience Africans can wait. They sit in complete silence on a 1 hour bus ride or stand immobile at the side of the road waiting for a matatu to arrive that is not already crammed. The silence is not seen as antisocial and the long delays not seen as the result of somebody else' wrongdoing.
Yesterday I played football with some boys from the village for the first time. On a pitch that was muddy, slanted, covered in rocks and in no ways straight they all played bear footed. Motuko a 15 year old who had to drop out of high school because his father cannot afford it anymore and now helps out occasionally is exceptionally good. He along with three others try very hard to communicate with me in English, while everybody else sticks to kikamba the local language. Sometimes they like to go to the next village on Saturdays to watch a Bruce Lee or Chuck Norris movie translated into Swahili when they can afford to spend the 5 shillings (5 cents).
Finally, just to warn you, my host father and I are thinking about trying to raise money for either more water tanks in the area (as then the water shortages would be less detremental) or for seeds (as even if there is water some might not be able to afford seeds so go hungry anyway). However I want to gather ideas and set priorities first before laying it out to you. As this is Africa and time is not definite that might take two weeks.
Swahili of the day!
Jumatatu = Monday, Jumanne = Tue, Jumatano = WEd, Alhamsi = Thu, Ijumaa = Fri, Jumamosi = Sat, Jumapili = Sun

Saturday, October 17, 2009

14/10
First day in the project but on a stop in the nearest city of to Kathuni, called Machakos. I am the only white person in the entire city and it makes me feel very uncomfortable. The perception that the majority of the rural people have of white people are that they equal lots of money, which in comparison to what they have is surely true but is not the reason I am here. So it is understandable when they try in every way possible to get some money from you but it is annoying and not welcoming much to the contrary what everybody will tell you about the hospitality.
The bus ride took roughly one hour on the "highway" from Mombasa to Nairobi with only two lanes most of the time and gaps lacking asphalt. The roof of the bus looked like it would collapse at any moment but I saw zebras, giraffes and gazelles already. We are about to carry on the Kathuni. I hope the food at the host family will be sufficient and edible because I really feel undernourished especially as the work coming up includes hard labor on the fields.
The host father, Peter, sounds enthusiastic and seems very nice. He lives with his mother, sister and an orphan all of whom I have not yet met. The conditions in Machakos, which is one of the biggest cities in Kenya, are terrible. It is constantly dusty, which has the advantage that I might loose my habit of biting my nails as I might otherwise get sick from the dirty hands. Although already shocked by Nairobi I now see the advantages of it over Machakos, which means I will gladly spend more time in my project.
Another volunteer from Germany called Anne who came in September but left her project because it was dreadful might join me until December after a two week holiday in Uganda. By now I really hope she will come as having somebody else even it is only for the first few months would be tremendous.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

The promised pictures

The fortified anglican church.
Traffic in down-town Nairobi.

The track towards Kampala.

The new building in the spot where the U.S. embassy used to be (bombed in 1998 with a death toll of about 340 people)

Konstantin getting his hair braided.


The view from inside Kibera over the wall seperating it from the luxury apartments in the back

Child in Kibera


Rail road that goes from Mombassa through Nairobi to Kampala.

A market stand in the slum of Kibera
Thu 09/10
Today has been the most uplifting day so far because not only do we have a shedule of how things are supposed to proceed but the shedule is also being followed. The second swahili lesson was followed by a talk with Chofi the project manager who makes a very good first impression and knows both our projects very well. The downside however is that we now have crammed days and only leave on Wednesday.
The nights have become noticably cooler and I think I even cought a small cold. This weakend I am also supposed to meet my host father Peter, which will hopefully be good as due to the nature of my project, I will be working very close to him. I was also told that Kathuni is not known for suffering from malaria, which means simple measures such as sleeping under a mosqito net etc. should be sufficient combined with Lariam.
As I am writing our house mama is preparing dinner, which is chicken bought alive on the market today. It is a special occasion because two of the KVDA members leave for Barcelona tomorrow for the international meeting of voluntary associations. I do not look forward to telling her on Sunday that I will not be attending church mass with her and the other volunteers...
Fri 09/10
After a couple of days of keeping to the shedule we left an hour late to the German embassy to chat with Mr. Kraemer and receive our "security passports", which in theory will keep us safe because on it it says:"Mqenye hati hii ni raia wa nchi Ubalozi wa Jamhuri ya Ujerumani" (put simply we are under special protection of the embassy). Hopefullt we will never get into a situation in which we have to rely on those written words. All three of us were surprised by the suspicion that the guards but also some employees had towards us, however friendly all in all.
When we got back the swahili lesson started delayed which meant that by the time I met with Silvia Moeller, a family friend whos children also went to Kabira (my school in Kampala/Uganda). She now works for the american peace corp volunteers in the medical department. Meeting Sylvia was great as she made me feel like I have a close contact in Nairobi and just in passing showed me a delicious restaurant. I hope to see her work place soon.
Telling people I have lived in Kampala for three years is generally of great advantage as both countries share a close relationship and many Kenyans have been in Uganda. Since leaving it in 2000 a lot has changed, which I was told not only by our dear Ugandan friend Olivia but also from people in Nairobi, as one Business School student put it "Makerere university in Kampala is the Harvard of Africa".
On my return to the house we had our common diseases in Kenya lesson, which really was like a lecture in medicine with a hint of "never forget though that all that air was created by god" rather than giving us concrete advice. Interesting nevertheless though because his approach to medicine was much like an article I read in the Spiegel on evolutionary medicine, which basically builds on the statistic that 75% of world wide medical cases could be prevented/cured at home with a change in lifestlye to more exercise etc... (Der Spiegel Nr. 40/26.09.09 "Geheimnis der Gesundheit")
Two hours later and in a time frame of roughly 5 minutes the clouds opened and caused the most hecktick city I have ever whitnessed to calm down as the rain soaked roads slowly transformed to mud and emptied.
I received further information about Kathuni today. I now know my P.O. Box is 36-Machakos and the full name of my host father is Peter Kioko.
Swahili sentences of the day! (yes I progressed to whole sentences!)
mimi ninaandika - I am writing
mimi nimeandika - I will be writing
mimi niliandika - I was writing

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Wed 07.10
After being told that we should not leave the house early in the morning of Tuesday for the embassy because our preparation would continue with Swahili lessons we scraped our plans. When the morning came instead of 8 we started at 10:30...
The lesson itself then only lasted about an hour but it was a good first start to Swahili the language spoken by most of East-Africans. It's origins are from the Arabic and Bantu (spoken originally in the area before foreign influence) but contains English, French and even some German, which becomes most visible when trying to pronounce the words as it is exactly like German. We spent the first session learning the week days, numbers, common phrases and singing a song.
Afterward we spent the rest of the day catching up on sleep as it is extremely hard to fall asleep at night as well as catching up on food in a shopping center as it is hard to get used to the food cooked here and you never are too sure about where and how the food was cleaned and cooked.
Today we woke up to Keke a Kenyan volunteer who is responsible for cultural exchange asking us whether we wanted to tour Nairobi with him and look at the must sees such as the Parliament, state house, ministry of finance, prison for political prisoners under former president Moi (the torture house for Kibaki is currently unknown) etc... Of course we agreed and went on a 3 hour walk through Nairobi. I was most impressed however by the Goethe Institut and the Alliance Francaise in the city... you walk through the doors and you literally feel like you were in Germany or France. Additionally the fight of religious groups to missionate as many Kenyans as possible is simply mind boggling. The anglican church has a huge castle looking cmplex, the opus dei have a house a little outside the city center and the list goes on and on.
When we went back at 2 to meet with our Sahili teacher for further lessons she was not there and so we were faced with yet another afternoon that we have to fill.
Max and I are now in the internet cafe and afterwards will buy something in the next door super market while the remaining french girl (I should probably know her name by now...) is buying cards in a larger shopping center a bit further away so we are not doomed for boredom.
I will try and follow up this update with pictures that I have taken so far this friday.
Swahili word of the day!
(well phrase) unaitwa nani? = what is your name?

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Kenyan whistle blower

Mon 05/10

By now it has rained once and because of that the water truck also came by today to supply us with long overdue water. Last night I got my first bite but as were still in Nairobi I doubt it will result in malaria. To everybodies surprise here Lariam, a malaria medication I take as prophylaxis known to have serious side effects, still shows none.

I have started reading "It's our turn to eat" a book written by the Financial Times correspondent for Africa about a former minister responsible for reducing curroption under Kibeki the president of Kenya and resigning after realising that the same game of curropt officials was being continued just under a new administration. I have only reached chapter 6 so I do not know whether the minister will release the documents but undoubtedly given the nature of the book he has. This story also explained the recent headlines on the front pages of Nairobi's newspapers such as "Kenya vs. World". At least 8 government officials face proscecution by an international court for involvement in the slaughter of 1600 Kenyans last year and corruption.
The book gave me a very good chance to catch up on my admittedly spongy history on Kenya. In 1963 their year of independence Kenyans earned on average as much as Malaysians today the latter earn 10 times more, which leads to the question what went wrong in such a promising country that unlike its neighbours remained more or less peaceful.
Today I found out the only volunteer in my project before me was a 47 year old who sold his house and car and came to Africa with all his money to find a wife. He was kicked out of the project after demanding the money he had handed out at first back with legal backing forcing some of the villagers to sell their land and taking a 17 year old with him to Italy. Awesome for me!
Swahili word of the day!
Ahsante sana = thank you very much

What a difference a day makes

Sat 03/10
On wednesday from two of the biggest and modern airports in the world, Frankfurt and Heathrow with a smaller version of Harrods inside and a caviar and champagne bistro plus the chance to win a Masserati to Nairobi without water to shower after 10h of sitting in planes. The lack of water continued leaving onlz enough for cooking. I am staying at a house of the Kenya Voluntary Development Association (KVDA) the partner organisation of the SCI with the two other long term volunteers, two other German girls that are spending their last days of a 4 week work camp here and are very helpful as they know the city, three french girls who came to Kenya for 3 months of voluntary work and one for eight. Today a Spaniard joined making space for the expected arrival of further volunteers very limited.
On our first of Nairobi we visited the biggest slum of Africa (Kibera). Half the population of Nairobi lives here also meaning half the work force and due to the higher birth rates and rural-urban migration also the major potential work force of the 4 million city. The slum is kept from expanding by a tall concrete wall that goes around it nearly entirely. The smells inside are at times nearly unbearable and we could not take many pictures because most of the people living there were suspicious or offended of the sight of white people and cameras. We even went inside one of the houses in which a friend of a KVDA helper lived with two wives and eight children. The children were all delighted to see us and chanted with delight "how are you muzungu" when we passed.
Later that day Constantin, Max (the other two long term volunteers) and I found out that we will have to stay another 10 days for preparation because of volunteers that arrive later. This came as a big disappointment because I already dislike Nairobi and would rather get going with my project. Today is Saturday and we spent the day in the city with the two German girls as it is their last day we combined swimming in a hotel pool with taking the first shower since wednesday all for 200 Kenyan shilling roughly 2 Euros. Additionally we can escape the smog of the city and have a good view from the top floor.
Swahili word of the day!
Coconut = nazi